Hanalei

Hanalei is a town of about 450 people on the north shore of Kauaʻi. The bay is a two-mile crescent of yellow sand framed by 4,000-foot green ridges. The taro fields along the Hanalei River are the largest remaining in Hawaiʻi. The town has one street, one stoplight (sometimes), a handful of restaurants, two surf shops, and a wooden pier from 1892.

Winter (October–April) the bay can deliver Hawaiʻi's biggest waves outside the North Shore of Oʻahu. Hanalei Bay surf breaks at 'The Bowl' have killed people; respect the lifeguard flags. Summer the bay turns to glass. Stand-up paddle from end to end.

Hanalei is the eastern gateway to the Nā Pali Coast — the wild north-west cliffs of Kauaʻi accessible only by boat, helicopter, or the 11-mile Kalalau Trail (permit required). Ke'e Beach at the end of the road is the trailhead and one of the best snorkel beaches on the island.

Cash is appreciated. Cell service is patchy past Princeville. The locals run on island time and would prefer you do too — leave the schedule in your hotel.